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Feeding a thin horse We here at AHDF have seen our share of thin and starved horses. We have learned what to do to get them back into shape safely. However, many kind-hearted folks will take in a horse in poor body condition and try to help only to have the horse colic, founder or even die. So, we thought that we would put together this article to help guide you through getting your horse healthy. As always, consult your vet for specific instructions, this is only to be used as a guide. Even a healthy horse can benefit from a healthy steady diet, so keep notes on how you feed so if your horse is ever sold or you cannot attend your horse at some point you can pass along feeding instructions. This is especially important if you mix your own feed or add supplements. You may want to keep this in the barn for easy access in case of emergency.
If your horse is thin have a vet check him/her immediately.
Loss of appetite is a sign of illness and consulting a vet early can save your friend’s
life and save you money in the long run. What to look for first is body condition. If you are unfamiliar with horses, or don’t feel comfortable assessing the horse’s condition call an equine vet. They are trained in determining condition and can also determine if the problem is health related. Your horse may have dental problems, parasites or a major illness and the vet can check all these things out. Horses lose body fat in a very specific pattern. First they lose fat reserves on the ribs, crest and rump. Next they will begin losing fat and muscle in the neck, shoulders and hindquarters. If your horse has prominent hip and tailbones, they are in severe trouble and take a great deal of constant care to bring them back. Horses who are hot or have a high metabolism are prone to lose weight if they don’t get the calories they need. Some horses require a great deal more care and food than other horses. Horses are classified as either hard or easy keepers and these horses are hard keepers. They require more calories, but spread out over 2 or more feedings a day so as not to cause other problems. Horses that are nervous or stressed also require more calories, so if you are planning on selling or moving your horse you may want to temporarily slightly up their calorie intake. However, the adjustment needs to be slow and methodical. If in doubt ask your vet. It is harder to keep/add weight to a horse during the winter. If it is cold out and your horse is thin use a blanket to help it retain its body heat. Now what do you do if you found a skinny sad horse and you brought him/her home to love and care for? The first thing you should do is NOT turn him/her out with your other horses until they have been thoroughly checked by a vet, gotten all their shots and you assure that they have a negative Coggins. You also need to be aware that bringing that horse home will take a great deal of commitment on your part. If you are unable to provide the care the horse needs, please donate it to a horse rescue or find it another home. Rescues can provide the care and feeding to get him/her healthy and find it a good home where it will be loved and cared for. Don’t feel like this is letting the animal down, you have helped it by saving it and placing it where the animal can get what it needs. Next, you should know that it took more than a week to get into poor condition and it will take a long time to get them back into condition. Horses are one of the only animals that can die of a stomachache, also known as colic. They can also develop problems with their feet caused by overfeeding, called founder. You will have to develop a feeding program to get them healthy in a safe way. It can take months or even a year to get your horse back into a healthy condition. Severely thin horses (with tail and hip bones protruding) have a compromised metabolic state and can die of cardiac or respiratory arrest if food is introduced too quickly. The best way to begin feeding these animals is to give good quality grass hay in small amounts several times a day. Start with a quarter of a flake of hay every 4 hours. You will gradually increase the amount and decrease the number over a week until they are getting about 4 pounds of hay every 8 hours. By day 10 he/she should get as much as they can eat twice a day. The horse should be on a hay1 diet for at least a month before you introduce any grain. Remember that if your vet gives you a different schedule stick to that diet. Also, do not try to worm it at this point. Worming medications can cause diarrhea or stomach distress that the animal’s system cannot handle. Once the month has passed, you may notice that the horse is looking better. Its eyes are brighter, he/she may have more energy and it is no longer sad. You can now introduce grain1, but you must do it slowly. Start with ¼ to ½ of a scoop of grain once a day and increase to twice a day after a week. (Scoops are a standard measurement and can be purchased inexpensively wherever you buy your grain. Using coffee cans, which are not standard, are not a good idea anyway since they can expose your horse to rust and other toxins.) Slowly work your way up by adding ¼ to ½ of a scoop per week until the horse is getting at least a full scoop at feeding time2. You can add a little corn oil to your grain to help add calories, but if your horse’s stool gets loose or oily cut back on the oil.3 If your horse is not eating its full rations at each feeding it is time to call the vet out again. Also, you may want to add an exercise routine to their daily schedule. This helps increase their appetite and helps them rebuild their muscle mass. You should also allow the horse access to a salt and/or mineral block. The horse should be wormed once you begin introducing grain and placed on a regular worming schedule. Also, be aware that it much more difficult to put weight on a horse during the winter. It is hard to tell sometimes that the horse is gaining weight. If you are concerned that they may not be gaining weight you can use a weight tape or scale. Make sure you are measuring the horse at the same time every week. You may be surprised. Once the horse has reached its target weight you can begin to slowly stabilize its grain while allowing it free grazing and/or hay. Maintain your feeding schedule to maintain its weight. Don’t forget to post your horse’s feeding schedule and feed mixture. Your horse is now a happy well-fed animal and you should be congratulated. 1. Alfalfa and other legume hays are higher in protein, but lower in calories. Too much protein can cause other problems with your horse’s digestive tract.
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